The Vast and Complex World of Oolongs: an Introduction

Oolong tea is something of an acquired taste. The first impediment to enjoying it is its relative obscurity. Compared to the traditional black teas imported from India and consumed by inhabitants of the British Isles and nations influenced by them, green and oolong teas were not as well known. Green tea has enjoyed something of a renaissance in North America lately due to its manifold health benefits, and many who have delved into it have also discovered its close cousin, white tea. However, oolong teas still remain comparatively less well-known, except among Chinese expatriate communities and serious tea aficionados. While there are very fine black and green teas available from many nations, oolong teas are the one category of tea dominated by the Chinese. Without a doubt, the finest oolongs in the world are produced both in mainland China and Taiwan. But there are significant and important differences between the general styles of oolong produced in each region, and they both have their own unique character and pros and cons. This article will offer a brief overview of the general differences between the two and what you can expect from the flavor profile.

First, to offer a complete survey of oolong tea would be impossible. There is too much variety and complexity within the category. It is best to get a general grasp of what oolong tea is, what differentiates mainland-Chinese oolongs from Taiwanese (or "Formosa" oolongs, as they are often called) and why oolongs from these two countries are inarguably the best.

Generally speaking, oolong teas are characterized by a level of oxidation somewhere between green tea and black tea. There is much variation in how oxidized any particular oolong is. Oolongs from mainland China are generally of lower oxidation. Sometimes called "pouchongs," these range between 20-40% oxidation, and have a light green, jadelike liquor and light, floral notes and hints of citrus fruits. In recent years, Taiwan has also taken to producing some of these, and some of their offerings are quite good. However, Taiwanese oolongs traditionally are more heavily oxidized, ranging from 40-80% oxidation, with a darker liquor sometimes approaching an amber or burnt sienna colour and darker flavor notes suggesting caramel.

Many of the most famous oolong teas come from Fujian province in China, a region that has a long tradition of producing them. Fujian Tie Guan Yin (pictured) is a staple of this region. In Taiwan, some of the best oolongs are grown in the mountains, such as Alishan oolong and the famous Dong Ding. The mountainous teas have a uniquely sweet, light taste in contrast to the traditional Taiwanese oolongs, which are dominated by woody, caramelly, dark notes.
Perhaps the most bizarre and interesting Taiwanese oolong, however, is "Oriental Beauty" or Dong Fang Mei Ren. Produced only in Taiwan (although often the subject of ersatz imitations from elsewhere), Oriental Beauty is a variety of oolong whose unique flavor is influenced by an insect that chews on the leaves. The digestive secretions of this insect, known as a Cicadellidae or, colloquially, a leafhopper or tea jassid, seep into the leaves and change them on a chemical level. The resulting flavor is too complex to describe, with herbal, fruity, woody and gamy notes all contending for supremacy. The un-infused leaf is also very interesting: variegated and sort of shriveled, folded upon itself. Unfortunately, this is also very expensive stuff, usually going for about $30/100g.

If you're just venturing out into the world of oolong tea, a Tie Guan Yin from mainland China is a good starting point, as it features medium oxidation, a pleasantly inoffensive woody, "twiggy" taste and mild light orange color, and can usually be had for a reasonable price.

Finally, referring back to a question posed early on, why are the oolongs from mainland China and Taiwan the world's best? The answer, at least for now, is: no one else really makes them! While there are some oolongs produced in Nepal that are quite good (try some from the Jun Chiyabari estate, for example) and some made elsewhere in the world (Vietnam and India make them as well) no other nations produce enough to be serious contenders, and what they do produce tends to fall short of the high quality of Chinese and Taiwanese oolong.

Our next article will discuss one of the world's best oolongs, the roasted Taiwanese Tie Guan Yin. While expensive, this tea is an unparalleled experience and a must for anyone interested in the best the style has to offer.

Gear Review: Breville Variable Temperature Tea Kettle (BKE820XL)

As the old adage has it, "a watched pot never boils." It is certainly tedious to watch and wait as water in your kettle reaches the right temperature. However, as discussed in a previous article, using the correct water temperature is extremely important when making a pot of tea. The problem is that making loose tea is already more work than many tea drinkers would like, and the extra effort involved in monitoring water temperature with a thermometer is no doubt even more off-putting.

Breville, an Australian manufacturer of small appliances, has created a product whose aim is to solve this problem by making it much more convenient to make loose tea at the right temperature without watching the kettle. The kettle automatically heats the water to the correct temperature for each type of tea. Sounds like a good idea: but does it deliver?

The first thing you'll notice about the Breville Variable Temperature Kettle is its sleek, modern design. The aesthetic of the kettle is very pleasing to the eye and gives an impression of quality, sturdiness and elegance. The brushed-metal construction, with its somewhat Art Deco look, faintly echoes the bold stylings of 1950s kitchen appliances. The base is quite sturdy and features an array of buttons on the front with easy-to-read labels corresponding to each type of tea. The buttons are large, have a satisfying tactility and light up in a different color depending on what you're doing with the kettle. When you push a button to select a style of tea, the button's perimeter lights up in an eye-pleasing luminous white color; the "Start" button lights up in red. It's a nice touch and kind of fun. It's also not a gimmick because, if your kitchen is dimly lit, it helps you see what you're doing. The front of the kettle features a large and easy-to-read water window that tells you what volume of water is in the kettle. The lid is completely silent when opening and closing and opens at the push of a button; it also has a delightfully cushioned feel while doing so. Overall, the kettle has an amazing aesthetic that somehow makes a utilitarian, boring small appliance like a kettle fun to use, and that is quite an achievement.

On a functional level, the kettle does not disappoint either. It has five settings for different varieties of tea: green, white, oolong, "French Press" (which, obviously, you can also use for coffee) and black (which brings the water to a boil). There is also a "hold temperature" feature which will keep the water at a certain temperature for 20 minutes. The convenience of these features, the raison d'etre of the kettle, are not to be downplayed and work very well, although their implementation is not perfect. The temperatures associated with each style are:

Green: 175F
White: 185F
Oolong: 195F
French Press: 200F
Black: 212F

These temperatures are generally correct, although some green teas (notably certain Japanese greens and the more delicate Chinese varieties) benefit from lower temperatures, around the 140F-158F range. As well, some would argue that there should be more than one option for oolong tea. Oolong is a large and complex category and, for example, lightly-oxidized Chinese pouchongs do best around 180F-190F, while more highly-oxidized Taiwanese oolongs are best steeped at about 190F-200F. Still, the suggested temperatures for white, "French Press" (which suits lighter black teas such as Keemun and Darjeeling) and Black are right on the mark, and the temperature for green is not so far off as to spoil the end result. While a connoisseur might have wanted finer distinctions between sub styles and temperatures, most people aren't that sensitive or discerning, and having so many buttons probably would have cluttered the front instrument panel.

The one other minor downside of the kettle is that it collects mineral buildup inside fairly quickly. It is not obvious why this is, but it is easily remedied: you just clean the kettle once every few months with vinegar. It also has a replaceable scale filter near the spout.

So is this product worth the approximately $150 you will spend to have it in your kitchen? That depends. if you love tea and you make it often, the answer is an unqualified yes. The product features fantastic, sleek styling, great durability in its sturdy all-metal design, and is really fun to use. It also does a fine job of achieving its stated aim of making it simple to brew tea to the right temperature. While the cost-conscious or those who are only casually interested in tea will prefer a cheaper alternative, this is a tremendously accomplished product with only a few minor drawbacks and is well worth the money for people who are serious about tea.

Japanese Green Teas, Pt 4: Gyokuro

Gyokuro is a very fine tea from Japan that can with some authority lay claim to being the world's best green tea. Unlike most green teas, Gyokuro is shade-grown. This means that the tea plant is shielded from the sun using either finely woven cloth or, in the more traditional method, straw. This protection from sunlight imparts a number of qualities to the tea that are not found in any other tea.

First, the leaves retain a much higher chlorophyll content than other green teas, which contributes both to the beautiful deep emerald color of the leaves and the grassy flavor. Second, the proportion of nutrients absorbed from the soil is higher as the plant does not need to devote as many resources to keeping itself hydrated. This results in higher concentrations of sugars and amino acids and lower concentrations of catechins. The result on the flavor of the tea is a sweeter, milder tea with very little astringency and strong notes of grass, vegetables and pure water. Thirdly, Gyokuro's bouquet is almost like perfume: sweet, fresh and pure, redolent of spring, it is unequalled by other green teas. Perhaps the most alluring aspect of Gyokuro, however, is its legendary color. When infused, the color of the liquor is a pale, almost clear yellow-gold (seen at left).

Unfortunately, as with many other commodities prized by connoisseurs, the high quality of Gyokuro also translates into high price. For example, 50g of Gyokuro cost $14.80 per 50g as of March 7, 2011; five times as much (250g) of a good quality China Jasmine only cost $7.02. There are a number of reasons for this; first, Gyokuro is very popular in Japan, and only grown once a year, in Spring. The majority of the tea is consumed domestically, and it is quite often that the initial harvests are quickly sold out. It is also frequently given as a gift between wealthy individuals or businesspeople, in the same way that the Chinese make gifts of aged nests of Pu-Erh tea.

Still, despite its sometimes prohibitive cost, Gyokuro is one of the world's finest green teas and one that every tea enthusiast or lover of green tea owes it to themselves to try; it is worth the high price.

Ticolino Tea Sticks: An Appealing Third Way

Those of us who love tea will always find a way to have our daily cup. However, sometimes this can be more challenging than it needs to be. Many of us spend much of our day in places where making good quality loose tea is not an option--offices or schools, for example. For those of us that don't want to resign ourselves to the use of tea bags but can't convince the boss to let us keep a teapot on our desk, there's a third option: Serengeti Tea's Ticolino-branded Tea Sticks.

The Tea Stick's main strengths are its practicality and its convenience. The sticks are perforated from top to bottom with small holes to allow the tea to infuse. This contributes to a better cup of tea because the tea infuses evenly throughout the entire vessel, whether it's a mug, tumbler or proper tea cup. Tea bags, conversely, tend to disperse the infusion mainly to the bottom of the drinking vessel which contributes to an unbalanced cup that is stronger at the bottom. Another advantage of the sticks is their compact and portable nature. You can put them in a purse or backpack and not worry about them breaking during your travels; the material that contains the tea is quite durable and cannot be easily ripped. As well, given the shape of the tea stick, you can use it to stir in milk or sugar without having to find a stir stick to serve the same purpose.

The tea sticks come in a variety of flavors ranging in style from herbal to black to green. Among the flavors available are Earl Grey, High Tea Blend (roughly equivalent to English Breakfast), Jasmine Green, Chamomile, and Cardamom Black Tea (reminiscent of Chai). There are also a number of more exotic black tea flavors such as Mango and the delicious and unusual Pineapple, as well as a coffee stick called Jamaica Blue Mountain.

Serengeti Ticolino Tea Sticks can be purchased on the Serengeti Tea website, http://www.serengetiteacanada.com/. For those of us with busy lives who don't want to compromise on the quality of our tea, they are worth a look.