World Tea Party

We are now just over halfway through the 2010 Vancouver Olympics. You've seen most of the pavilions. You've checked out a few concerts. You've been assaulted by crazed Luongo impersonators in full gear in the dead of night. You've consumed gallons of beer. You've laughed, cried, and thrilled to Team Canada in hockey. You've participated in all manner of drunken debauchery and sober exploration. Perhaps, by now, you're looking for some new events just off the beaten track. Something a bit different--or just a place to chill and get introspective to recharge for a while before your next foray into the throbbing nightlife. But what does this have to do with tea, you ask?

The Vancouver International Center for Contemporary Asian Art at 2 West Hastings Street (not far from Stadium station) will be hosting an international event called the World Tea Party for the duration of the games. As the name implies, the event will focus on tea, but will feature live music, visual arts, tea servings in Pigeon Park, and discussions of tea culture and history by experts. The event website describes it thus:

"The World Tea Party is a “social sculpture” that involves the creative empowerment of the audience and the general public. Its interactive aspect makes the World Tea Party an effective vehicle for a debate about the relationship between the Olympics and the Downtown Eastside...During gallery hours, tea is offered for free, both inside the gallery and at times on the street, while video projections are shown on the building’s exterior windows daily from 6:00 pm to 10:00 pm...Two 5,000 lumen video projectors will be used to project images 40 feet wide across the front windows of the gallery. Content will include works by commissioned artists, live images of performances, pre-recorded tea images, [and] documentation of the World Tea Party in different context..."

Each day will bring a different event. (Go here for the event schedule). If you're interested in tea and looking for a fresh Olympic experience, the World Tea Party might be the thing.

Japanese Green Teas, Pt. 2: Genmaicha

Genmaicha (roughly, "brown rice tea,") is another example of the diverse and singular nature of Japanese green teas. It is also often known as "the people's tea" and is quite common and popular in Japan. But what is it, and how does it differ from other green teas?

Unlike other teas, which distinguish themselves by their aroma or color, Genmaicha is set apart by its taste, which is quite unlike almost any other tea. It is said that the style originated from poor farmers, who mixed cereals into their tea to make the supply last longer. While the grassy flavors typical of a Japanese green tea are very present on the palate, the crisp taste is relatively free of bitterness and rounded out by notes of corn, rice, and wheat, which derive from the aforementioned grains. The color of genmaicha is a beautiful pale yellow and it is redolent of vegetables.

Genmaicha is similar to Chinese tie-guan-yin (an Oolong) in that it aids digestion, but the real reason to drink it is the pure pleasure and uniqueness of the infusion. It is becoming more common here, and can be had at a number of local tea shops, including Murchies, Sawa, David's Tea and Pekoe Tea Lounge (formerly Steeps). The Matcha Genmaicha subvariety is available at the latter three. Genmaicha is the perfect complement to Japanese food; if you like green tea but want something with a little more character and complexity, try it.

Great local tea spots: Finch's Tea & Coffee House

Finch's Tea & Coffee House is a hip little coffee and tea joint that tends to attract a young, cool crowd. The first thing you'll notice when you step in, aside from the charmingly rustic decor and European flavor, is how busy it always is. Finch's doesn't take reservations, and if you come at lunch, you will have to wait (although usually not long, as tables open up frequently). Within, you usually can find types ranging from the lone grizzled scholar hunched over his textbook, to a gaggle of college kids engaged in heated debate, to the business lunch crowd who work nearby.

There's a reason for the bustle, and it's not just hipster buzz: Finch's is a great place to have lunch and one of the best sources for quality loose tea in the financial district. A wide variety of delicious baguettes, cheeses and soups is on offer, and as for tea, there are dozens of varieties--ranging from the pedestrian (Earl Grey and English Breakfast) to the gourmet (Darjeeling) to the lesser-known (Sencha and a variety of Japanese teas, for example). The staff are a class act, extremely knowledgeable and polite, and prices are extremely reasonable, coming in at typically less than $10 for a meal with a beverage. If you're in a hurry, Finch's also offers their menu to go.

Finch's is a great place to enjoy loose tea and a healthy, delicious lunch, and it won't empty your wallet. It's perfect for a date or even a place to grab a bite on your own and read a newspaper. It's unpretentious yet cool, and is highly recommended.

Japanese Green Teas, Pt. 1: Hoji-cha

It's well known that the Japanese love tea. It is a daily ritual for many Japanese, and while some among the younger generations may have migrated to other beverages such as coffee or soft drinks, it remains popular with all ages and strata of society.

The Japanese consume a lot tea--so much, in fact, that demand always exceeds supply, making the Japanese are one of the world's largest importers. In addition to the green teas that one would expect, Japan imports large quantities of oolong and black tea (particularly Darjeeling, which inspires a rabid enthusiasm among aficionados there). However, there is no type of tea as intimately involved with Japanese culture and history as green tea, and the domestic market produces a number of fascinating varieties that are comparatively not as well known outside Japan. One of these varieties is hoji-cha.

"Cha," or 茶, means "tea" in Japanese. Hoji-cha means, roughly, "roasted tea," and refers to the process involved in producing it. As the story goes, sometime in the early twentieth century a Kyoto tea merchant solved an overstock problem by roasting his excess quantities of bancha tea to produce an entirely new variety. Today, much as it was done then, the tea is produced by roasting green bancha tea in a porcelain pot over charcoal. This process results in significant changes to the taste, colour and aroma of the tea.

The first thing one notices is the distinctive liquor, perhaps best described as mahogany (some brews may be lighter, depending on how long the infusion is and what temperature of water is used). The tea has a pleasing, vaguely sea-like nose with hints of fish or seaweed. The flavor on the palate is similar--notes of seafood and brine, with a strong almond undertone. Overall, the taste could be described as rich, full-bodied, and balanced. As you drink it, the colour and the taste of hoji-cha may evoke images of a fine cigar, or a solidly constructed oak desk.

As the roasting process toasts the leaves, it has the arguably beneficial byproduct of nullifying the natural astringency of green tea, rendering it utterly without bitterness. The health-conscious will also be interested to know that the roasting process also removes a significant portion of the caffeine, making the tea a good choice for the caffeine-sensitive, or those who enjoy tea late at night.

Hoji-cha is popular in Japan, and is often served at Japanese restaurants. It used to be difficult to find in Canada, but this is changing: it can be found at Murchie's, Sawa, Urban Tea Merchant, and some locations of Blenz. If you can find it, it is one of the most unique and pleasant teas and definitely not like most other green teas you've tasted.