Japanese Green Teas, Pt. 1: Hoji-cha

It's well known that the Japanese love tea. It is a daily ritual for many Japanese, and while some among the younger generations may have migrated to other beverages such as coffee or soft drinks, it remains popular with all ages and strata of society.

The Japanese consume a lot tea--so much, in fact, that demand always exceeds supply, making the Japanese are one of the world's largest importers. In addition to the green teas that one would expect, Japan imports large quantities of oolong and black tea (particularly Darjeeling, which inspires a rabid enthusiasm among aficionados there). However, there is no type of tea as intimately involved with Japanese culture and history as green tea, and the domestic market produces a number of fascinating varieties that are comparatively not as well known outside Japan. One of these varieties is hoji-cha.

"Cha," or 茶, means "tea" in Japanese. Hoji-cha means, roughly, "roasted tea," and refers to the process involved in producing it. As the story goes, sometime in the early twentieth century a Kyoto tea merchant solved an overstock problem by roasting his excess quantities of bancha tea to produce an entirely new variety. Today, much as it was done then, the tea is produced by roasting green bancha tea in a porcelain pot over charcoal. This process results in significant changes to the taste, colour and aroma of the tea.

The first thing one notices is the distinctive liquor, perhaps best described as mahogany (some brews may be lighter, depending on how long the infusion is and what temperature of water is used). The tea has a pleasing, vaguely sea-like nose with hints of fish or seaweed. The flavor on the palate is similar--notes of seafood and brine, with a strong almond undertone. Overall, the taste could be described as rich, full-bodied, and balanced. As you drink it, the colour and the taste of hoji-cha may evoke images of a fine cigar, or a solidly constructed oak desk.

As the roasting process toasts the leaves, it has the arguably beneficial byproduct of nullifying the natural astringency of green tea, rendering it utterly without bitterness. The health-conscious will also be interested to know that the roasting process also removes a significant portion of the caffeine, making the tea a good choice for the caffeine-sensitive, or those who enjoy tea late at night.

Hoji-cha is popular in Japan, and is often served at Japanese restaurants. It used to be difficult to find in Canada, but this is changing: it can be found at Murchie's, Sawa, Urban Tea Merchant, and some locations of Blenz. If you can find it, it is one of the most unique and pleasant teas and definitely not like most other green teas you've tasted.