The Vast and Complex World of Oolongs: an Introduction

Oolong tea is something of an acquired taste. The first impediment to enjoying it is its relative obscurity. Compared to the traditional black teas imported from India and consumed by inhabitants of the British Isles and nations influenced by them, green and oolong teas were not as well known. Green tea has enjoyed something of a renaissance in North America lately due to its manifold health benefits, and many who have delved into it have also discovered its close cousin, white tea. However, oolong teas still remain comparatively less well-known, except among Chinese expatriate communities and serious tea aficionados. While there are very fine black and green teas available from many nations, oolong teas are the one category of tea dominated by the Chinese. Without a doubt, the finest oolongs in the world are produced both in mainland China and Taiwan. But there are significant and important differences between the general styles of oolong produced in each region, and they both have their own unique character and pros and cons. This article will offer a brief overview of the general differences between the two and what you can expect from the flavor profile.

First, to offer a complete survey of oolong tea would be impossible. There is too much variety and complexity within the category. It is best to get a general grasp of what oolong tea is, what differentiates mainland-Chinese oolongs from Taiwanese (or "Formosa" oolongs, as they are often called) and why oolongs from these two countries are inarguably the best.

Generally speaking, oolong teas are characterized by a level of oxidation somewhere between green tea and black tea. There is much variation in how oxidized any particular oolong is. Oolongs from mainland China are generally of lower oxidation. Sometimes called "pouchongs," these range between 20-40% oxidation, and have a light green, jadelike liquor and light, floral notes and hints of citrus fruits. In recent years, Taiwan has also taken to producing some of these, and some of their offerings are quite good. However, Taiwanese oolongs traditionally are more heavily oxidized, ranging from 40-80% oxidation, with a darker liquor sometimes approaching an amber or burnt sienna colour and darker flavor notes suggesting caramel.

Many of the most famous oolong teas come from Fujian province in China, a region that has a long tradition of producing them. Fujian Tie Guan Yin (pictured) is a staple of this region. In Taiwan, some of the best oolongs are grown in the mountains, such as Alishan oolong and the famous Dong Ding. The mountainous teas have a uniquely sweet, light taste in contrast to the traditional Taiwanese oolongs, which are dominated by woody, caramelly, dark notes.
Perhaps the most bizarre and interesting Taiwanese oolong, however, is "Oriental Beauty" or Dong Fang Mei Ren. Produced only in Taiwan (although often the subject of ersatz imitations from elsewhere), Oriental Beauty is a variety of oolong whose unique flavor is influenced by an insect that chews on the leaves. The digestive secretions of this insect, known as a Cicadellidae or, colloquially, a leafhopper or tea jassid, seep into the leaves and change them on a chemical level. The resulting flavor is too complex to describe, with herbal, fruity, woody and gamy notes all contending for supremacy. The un-infused leaf is also very interesting: variegated and sort of shriveled, folded upon itself. Unfortunately, this is also very expensive stuff, usually going for about $30/100g.

If you're just venturing out into the world of oolong tea, a Tie Guan Yin from mainland China is a good starting point, as it features medium oxidation, a pleasantly inoffensive woody, "twiggy" taste and mild light orange color, and can usually be had for a reasonable price.

Finally, referring back to a question posed early on, why are the oolongs from mainland China and Taiwan the world's best? The answer, at least for now, is: no one else really makes them! While there are some oolongs produced in Nepal that are quite good (try some from the Jun Chiyabari estate, for example) and some made elsewhere in the world (Vietnam and India make them as well) no other nations produce enough to be serious contenders, and what they do produce tends to fall short of the high quality of Chinese and Taiwanese oolong.

Our next article will discuss one of the world's best oolongs, the roasted Taiwanese Tie Guan Yin. While expensive, this tea is an unparalleled experience and a must for anyone interested in the best the style has to offer.