Gear Review: Breville Variable Temperature Tea Kettle (BKE820XL)

As the old adage has it, "a watched pot never boils." It is certainly tedious to watch and wait as water in your kettle reaches the right temperature. However, as discussed in a previous article, using the correct water temperature is extremely important when making a pot of tea. The problem is that making loose tea is already more work than many tea drinkers would like, and the extra effort involved in monitoring water temperature with a thermometer is no doubt even more off-putting.

Breville, an Australian manufacturer of small appliances, has created a product whose aim is to solve this problem by making it much more convenient to make loose tea at the right temperature without watching the kettle. The kettle automatically heats the water to the correct temperature for each type of tea. Sounds like a good idea: but does it deliver?

The first thing you'll notice about the Breville Variable Temperature Kettle is its sleek, modern design. The aesthetic of the kettle is very pleasing to the eye and gives an impression of quality, sturdiness and elegance. The brushed-metal construction, with its somewhat Art Deco look, faintly echoes the bold stylings of 1950s kitchen appliances. The base is quite sturdy and features an array of buttons on the front with easy-to-read labels corresponding to each type of tea. The buttons are large, have a satisfying tactility and light up in a different color depending on what you're doing with the kettle. When you push a button to select a style of tea, the button's perimeter lights up in an eye-pleasing luminous white color; the "Start" button lights up in red. It's a nice touch and kind of fun. It's also not a gimmick because, if your kitchen is dimly lit, it helps you see what you're doing. The front of the kettle features a large and easy-to-read water window that tells you what volume of water is in the kettle. The lid is completely silent when opening and closing and opens at the push of a button; it also has a delightfully cushioned feel while doing so. Overall, the kettle has an amazing aesthetic that somehow makes a utilitarian, boring small appliance like a kettle fun to use, and that is quite an achievement.

On a functional level, the kettle does not disappoint either. It has five settings for different varieties of tea: green, white, oolong, "French Press" (which, obviously, you can also use for coffee) and black (which brings the water to a boil). There is also a "hold temperature" feature which will keep the water at a certain temperature for 20 minutes. The convenience of these features, the raison d'etre of the kettle, are not to be downplayed and work very well, although their implementation is not perfect. The temperatures associated with each style are:

Green: 175F
White: 185F
Oolong: 195F
French Press: 200F
Black: 212F

These temperatures are generally correct, although some green teas (notably certain Japanese greens and the more delicate Chinese varieties) benefit from lower temperatures, around the 140F-158F range. As well, some would argue that there should be more than one option for oolong tea. Oolong is a large and complex category and, for example, lightly-oxidized Chinese pouchongs do best around 180F-190F, while more highly-oxidized Taiwanese oolongs are best steeped at about 190F-200F. Still, the suggested temperatures for white, "French Press" (which suits lighter black teas such as Keemun and Darjeeling) and Black are right on the mark, and the temperature for green is not so far off as to spoil the end result. While a connoisseur might have wanted finer distinctions between sub styles and temperatures, most people aren't that sensitive or discerning, and having so many buttons probably would have cluttered the front instrument panel.

The one other minor downside of the kettle is that it collects mineral buildup inside fairly quickly. It is not obvious why this is, but it is easily remedied: you just clean the kettle once every few months with vinegar. It also has a replaceable scale filter near the spout.

So is this product worth the approximately $150 you will spend to have it in your kitchen? That depends. if you love tea and you make it often, the answer is an unqualified yes. The product features fantastic, sleek styling, great durability in its sturdy all-metal design, and is really fun to use. It also does a fine job of achieving its stated aim of making it simple to brew tea to the right temperature. While the cost-conscious or those who are only casually interested in tea will prefer a cheaper alternative, this is a tremendously accomplished product with only a few minor drawbacks and is well worth the money for people who are serious about tea.