Put That in Your Pot and Smoke It: The Mysterious Lapsang Souchong

Lapsang Souchong. The name evokes an atmosphere of Eastern mysticism. In truth, this image is not too far off the mark. Lapsang Souchong is a tea that, love it or hate it, makes for an experience you will never forget.

Lapsang Souchong is a black tea of Chinese origin. It is so called, in part, because of the lengthwise rolling of the leaves (in tea production terminology, "souchong" is a classification that refers not to any one particular variety, but to a grade of large leaves that are rolled lengthwise). Before infusion, the leaves have a shiny, dark black color. After infusion, the tea's defining characteristic is its smoked aroma. The bouquet of a typical Lapsang Souchong is reminiscent of a campfire, or creosote. Some people claim it smells like smoked meat. The flavor is along the same lines: dark, bottom-heavy, strong and earthy. If you like single-malt scotch or cigars, which are also acquired tastes, then chances are good you'll like this tea. Conversely, the astringency is hard to take without milk and/or sugar, so it is not for everyone.

The distinct aroma and flavor of Lapsang Souchong unsurprisingly derives from the fact that the leaves are actually smoked over a pinewood fire, imparting some of its fiery characteristics to the tea. As with many other teas, the true origin of Lapsang Souchong is not known for certain. Some say that soldiers, passing through the Wuyi hills where the tea was made, delayed the harvest, and to preserve the tea the farmers would smoke the leaves to speed the drying process. Other versions of the origin story claim that the teas were smoked to keep them from spoiling over the long journey to Russia, whose royal family consumed Chinese black tea quite heavily--which explains why Lapsang Souchong is the main ingredient in "Russian Caravan" tea, which is a blend of Keemun, oolong and the aforementioned.

If you're brave enough, this tea is definitely worth a try. It is a tea that has legions of devoted fans, some of whom will drink nothing else, but it is also one that gives rise to passionate dislike among many. Ultimately, if you call yourself a tea lover, you must try it at least once--if only to say you did.