Tea Desire: celebrating flavor

Tea Desire was started in 2005 by Tony and Heidi Aupers, two Europeans with a lifelong love of tea. Citing the difficulty in procuring a good cup of tea in their area, as well as their belief that the time was right for a specialty tea store, they took the plunge and opened the first store in Vernon. Since then, outlets have been opened in Burnaby, Coquitlam and Nanaimo.

Tea Desire offers an impressive variety of traditional teas, running the gamut from black to white to green to oolong to herbals and tisanes. The only notable omission from their menu are Pu-Erh teas, presumably because the market in North America for such teas is small.

While the teas on offer are definitely good, and they do sell some grand cru teas from famous estates, on the whole their selection is not quite on par with what is available from places like David's Tea or Upton Tea Imports. That said, the comparison is hardly fair because Tea Desire is a different type of business--a retail store as opposed to a mail-order business, which can achieve economies of scale and reduce overhead by selling direct on the Internet. Tea Desire has several significant strengths which make it worth a visit.

First, the aesthetic of its retail locations is very refined. The Lougheed Mall store follows an open plan, with everything clearly visible and logically organized. Teas are attractively laid out in large tins behind the counter, similar to Teavana, a large tea retailer in the United States, categorized by type (black, green, oolong, herbal, etc) and color-coded for convenience. It is a friendly and inviting atmosphere for first-timers, but tea lovers will feel like everything is at their fingertips. The cool colors and open spaces of the retail location will make you feel at ease. The store also features a distinguished selection of fine teaware which is truly commendable. They carry everything from unglazed clay imitation yixing teapots to English-style ceramics and everything in between, as well as infusers, tea balls, thermal mugs, and the like. The selection of teaware was truly impressive when compared to similar stores, particularly in its variety. Most stores only offer one type of teaware, or else the selections are either uniformly too expensive or low-quality and cheap. Tea Desire has a good mix.

Second, the staff are highly knowledgeable about tea. Tea is a complex subject; science, history and aesthetics all bring their particular focus to bear on your drinking experience, whether you realize it or not. Pu Erh teas, for example, may seem bizarre and off-putting until you understand how they are made, and the cultural significance they have in traditional Chinese society. Strong, heavily caffeinated reddish-coloured black tea from bags may seem the norm until you realize that such teas are actually a relatively new development. There are many facets to knowing tea, and a holistic approach allows one to fully appreciate tea in all of its disparate, fascinating guises. Many tea stores in Vancouver are staffed with people for whom their stint in the store is just a day job; their tea knowledge is superficial at best. This is not the case at Tea Desire; here, the staff know their tea. They can explain how to properly prepare the tea, what temperature to use, how long to steep it, and, if you're a relative newcomer, what teas might please your palate; as well, connoisseurs will find that all their questions regarding taste, colour, aroma, etc. will be answered competently. Perhaps most importantly, you are free to browse the wide-open, inviting retail location without being bothered--the staff are not pushy.

Third, price. Price is always a consideration when buying tea. Tea Desire offers incredible value for money. Most of their teas are around $10/100g, which is quite competitive. The stores also offer discounts which gradually rise in proportion to the amount purchased. The more you buy, the more you save. This is especially attractive considering how low their regular prices already are. If you are looking for a moderate to good cup--perhaps to stock up on the "daily brew" that you drink every day rather than that extra special tea you bring out when you have guests, this would be an excellent place to look.

Fourth and finally, Tea Desire has an amazing variety of herbal teas and tisanes. The owners' European sensibilities show through in the truly wide variety of herbal teas and tisanes they offer (herbal teas and tisanes are quite popular in some parts of Europe, particularly Germany). Their brochure offers 26 different varieties of rooibos alone, some with exotic flavourings such as praline, latte macchiato, colada, and guava, and 31 flavoured black teas including such unique blends as amaretto, maple, walnut truffle and "strawberry and guava romance." Also on offer are honeybush, maté, pure fruit infusions such as goji berry, passionfruit and wildberry cocktail; herbals such as peppermint, lemongrass, and sage; and a variety of custom in-house specials with names like "Relaxation Organic" and "Tummy Organic."

If you live in the Tri-Cities area and you enjoy flavoured tea, are new to tea and interested in learning more, or just want a great price on a quantity of everyday tea, Tea Desire comes highly recommended.

Put That in Your Pot and Smoke It: The Mysterious Lapsang Souchong

Lapsang Souchong. The name evokes an atmosphere of Eastern mysticism. In truth, this image is not too far off the mark. Lapsang Souchong is a tea that, love it or hate it, makes for an experience you will never forget.

Lapsang Souchong is a black tea of Chinese origin. It is so called, in part, because of the lengthwise rolling of the leaves (in tea production terminology, "souchong" is a classification that refers not to any one particular variety, but to a grade of large leaves that are rolled lengthwise). Before infusion, the leaves have a shiny, dark black color. After infusion, the tea's defining characteristic is its smoked aroma. The bouquet of a typical Lapsang Souchong is reminiscent of a campfire, or creosote. Some people claim it smells like smoked meat. The flavor is along the same lines: dark, bottom-heavy, strong and earthy. If you like single-malt scotch or cigars, which are also acquired tastes, then chances are good you'll like this tea. Conversely, the astringency is hard to take without milk and/or sugar, so it is not for everyone.

The distinct aroma and flavor of Lapsang Souchong unsurprisingly derives from the fact that the leaves are actually smoked over a pinewood fire, imparting some of its fiery characteristics to the tea. As with many other teas, the true origin of Lapsang Souchong is not known for certain. Some say that soldiers, passing through the Wuyi hills where the tea was made, delayed the harvest, and to preserve the tea the farmers would smoke the leaves to speed the drying process. Other versions of the origin story claim that the teas were smoked to keep them from spoiling over the long journey to Russia, whose royal family consumed Chinese black tea quite heavily--which explains why Lapsang Souchong is the main ingredient in "Russian Caravan" tea, which is a blend of Keemun, oolong and the aforementioned.

If you're brave enough, this tea is definitely worth a try. It is a tea that has legions of devoted fans, some of whom will drink nothing else, but it is also one that gives rise to passionate dislike among many. Ultimately, if you call yourself a tea lover, you must try it at least once--if only to say you did.

A Simple Decaffeination Method

Here's an easy, simple and effective method of decaffeinating your tea that requires no special equipment or expertise.

It is estimated that 80-90% of the caffeine in tea is released within the first 30 seconds of infusion. This is particularly true of tea sold in bags, which releases caffeine much more quickly due to the broken leaves. For some people who find that tea keeps them up if they drink it late at night, or are sensitive to caffeine, this can be a problem. Commercial methods of decaffeination, which remove up to 95% of the caffeine in the beverage and are inarguably more effective than anything you can do at home, usually alter the flavor of the beverage substantially, and not in a good way.

So if you want to enjoy tea but without so much caffeine, what can you do? It's simple:

1. Steep the tea as you normally would, with whatever temperature of water is appropriate for the type of tea you're making.

2. Allow the tea to infuse for thirty seconds.

3. Remove the water from the pot or cup, but leave in the bag or leaves.

4. Pour more hot water into the pot or cup, and infuse for the regular amount of time, or to your own personal preference.

This method works. Why? Unless you're a real connoisseur (in which case no decaffeination method will be totally satisfactory), 30 seconds won't make or break the taste of the infusion. What it will do, however, is remove a substantial amount of caffeine from the infusion.

Using this method you can easily and effectively decaffeinate any tea at home.

Cheerio.

A Brief History of Teabags (Apologies to Stephen Hawking)

The vast majority of tea sold today is sold in bags. Indeed, the tea bag has become emblematic of the beverage. But for most of history, tea was not consumed this way. Consuming tea from a bag entails significant downsides which are not entirely obvious to the average consumer. The goal of this article is to explain why the teabag assumed dominance and point out why loose tea is, in most important ways, superior to bagged tea.

Teabags were commercially available as early as 1908, when tea merchant Thomas Sullivan rolled them out in New York. Initially they were used simply as a convenient way of packaging small quantities of loose tea, on the assumption that consumers would open the bags and infuse the loose tea in a pot in the traditional manner. The early teabags, including Sullivan's, were often made of hand-woven fabric, and contained full leaf tea. In America, where teabags became popular nearly right away, consumers found it convenient to infuse the bags directly in their cup rather than removing the loose tea. Later teabags took advantage of this by designing the bags more explicitly for direct infusion, which contributed to the rectangular or round mesh designs, usually made of paper, with which we are familiar today.

While teabags were popular right away in the United States, it took a while for them to catch on in the United Kingdom. There, it was arguably not until after World War II that teabags became the norm. During the Blitz, when Great Britain was under siege by the German air force, access to commodities was limited and tea was one of the staples that was the subject of rationing. After the war, around 1953, Tetley introduced their own teabag, a new design which touted itself as increasing water flow through the bag and resulting in a better quality cup. At a time when the culture of convenience, augmented by the rapid pace of technological growth, was taking hold worldwide, the convenience of the teabag was hard to argue with. According to the UK Tea Council, tea sold in bags accounted for less than 3 per cent of the British market in 1960, but by 2007 accounted for a staggering 96 per cent.

The teabag was once a quaint and novel idea, but today it dominates the tea world. However, this way of brewing tea has serious downsides both in terms of the quality of the resulting beverage and, potentially, your health. In recent years loose tea has been gaining ground, even with casual consumers.

First, a word regarding quality. Teabags usually contain "fannings," which are the tiny broken ends of the leaf that remain on the production floor after the larger pieces are collected for sale as loose tea. Given their origins as, essentially, waste, fannings are not representative of either the best leaves or the best portions of those leaves. Although teabag designs vary, for the most part they are perforated to allow water flow. This has the negative side effect of also admitting air into the bag, which causes the leaves to dry out and become stale much quicker than leaves that are vacuum-sealed or even just packed tightly in a container. As a result, teabags don't last as long as loose tea (although tea in general is best purchased in small quantities and consumed relatively quickly to ensure freshness). As well, if the bag breaks or is torn, the resulting mess is completely unsalvageable, whereas if you drop some loose tea you can just scoop it up and put it in a pot.

Second--and more important for some--is the health aspect. Tea leaves contain caffeine, which is released into the liquor upon infusion. Trauma to the leaf--such as when it is bruised or broken--causes it to release caffeine more quickly. Loose leaf tea or full leaf tea releases caffeine slowly and naturally, but a typical teabag, comprised solely of fannings, quickly releases a lot of caffeine into the cup. While some people prefer the jolt that this kind of infusion provides, this can be a serious issue for the caffeine-sensitive.

While teabags are certainly here to stay, more and more consumers are becoming aware of the difference in quality that loose tea provides. For more information on this topic, see Bill Waddington's article "Get Loose: The Benefits of Loose Tea."

Review: Safa Himalaya "Himalayan Night" Oolong

Nepal is an oft-overlooked region in the tea world, its tea industry being relatively new compared to places like India, China and Japan. The volume it produces is also generally smaller than those regions. One area where Nepal does not fall short, however, is in quality. One estate in particular, Jun Chiyabari, has managed in just nine short years to acquire a reputation for producing some of the world's best teas. It is attention to detail such as hand-rolling the leaves, producing in small batches, growing organically, and paying special attention to tea bush selection that makes it a real player. In the tea world, passion counts--and it will show in the final product.

SAFA Himalaya is a Vancouver-based importer that specializes in Nepalese tea. At present, their tea is procured mainly from Jun Chiyabari estate. They are a socially responsible business in several ways: first, they trade direct with growers and pay a fair price for the product--they typically pay what the growers ask--in an effort to support the livelihoods of local growers. Second, they do business only with tea gardens that treat their workers ethically and have a responsible and sustainable relationship with the environment. These practices help achieve two equally worthy ends. There is the obvious ethical benefit of helping the poor in Nepal raise their standard of living, of course. There is also the fact that contributing to the profitability of growers who choose to employ orthodox and traditional methods of tea production helps maintain a supply of high-quality loose tea for connoisseurs to enjoy. SAFA presently offers black, green and oolong tea; this review is of their "Himalayan Night" oolong.

Himalayan Night is a 70% fermented oolong in the style of the Taiwanese oolongs, which tend to be darker and more heavily oxidized than so-called "Chinese" oolongs. If you are familiar with other oolongs, the first thing you'll notice about Himalayan Night is that it is a pleasant paradox. Take the time to have a look, and you'll see that the leaves are handpicked for quality. Take the time to smell it, and you'll experience a strong nose of apricot and dried fruit which is very pleasant and yet a bit idiosyncratic, which really sums up the appeal of this tea. It is a tea that dares to be different, while still sharing enough common ground with other more well-known oolongs to not seem a jarringly novel experience.

The appearance of the tea is similarly new, yet familiar. While many oolongs have an austere appearance, taking the form of tightly rolled bluish/greenish pebbles, the dry leaves of Himalayan Night, with its wiry black, white and orange appearance, are pleasantly autumnal, not unlike certain Darjeelings (but much more colourful). Once infused (pictured above, top left; click for detail), the leaves are even more striking, with a variegated array of reds, oranges, yellows and browns that is definitely memorable. The liquor (top right) is striking--an exquisite gold color, similar to a Tie Guan Yin but darker and richer.

But what can be said of the taste? Perhaps the best indication of the quality of this tea--and the idiosyncratic duality that has been continually alluded to--is that connoisseurs will love it, and newcomers will probably be thrilled by it as well. The taste on the palate is complex and subtle--the fruity top notes will make themselves known early on, particularly the apricot that is also present in the nose. The muscatel flavors typical to Darjeelings are present, as well as a strong woody note reminiscent of, again, a Tie Guan Yin oolong. The flavor is also strangely "creamy" and has a fine roundness in the mouth which makes for a really refreshing cup--it feels like you've had a glass of really pure water. Lastly, to paraphrase the old maxim that "you keep tasting a great oolong even after you've finished drinking it," the aftertaste is fantastic and lingers on the palate long after the last sip.

The overall impression of this fine tea is of a hybrid of a very good Darjeeling and a very good Taiwanese oolong, without either one dominating the other. Truly remarkable, this tea is highly recommended to fans of either varietal, or to those who cherish the idea of indulging their hobby while simultaneously supporting development in impoverished areas.

Japanese Green Teas, Pt. 3: Matcha

Matcha is perhaps one of the better-known Japanese green teas due to its frequent association with "superfoods" such as acai berries, goji, and so on. Like these, matcha is touted for its putative health benefits, which are indeed considerable. But those who view matcha as a mere health food product are missing the basic enjoyment of this quintessential Japanese tea.

Matcha is powdered green Japanese tea. It is produced from a variety of shade-grown green tea called Gyokuro, which is quite popular on its own, and unquestionably one of the best Japanese greens (the first spring harvests of Gyokuro fetch very high prices and are hard to come by due to demand). As most teas today are made either in bags or from the whole leaf, the appearance and preparation of matcha stand apart. Typically, the deep green matcha powder is produced from a container and placed in a bowl, where it is mixed with hot water and whipped with a bamboo whisk until it foams and froths. When it has reached the correct consistency, it is then decanted into a vessel for consumption by the drinker. It is difficult to prepare correctly and water temperature is very important. The whole procedure and atmosphere surrounding matcha is so singular that it is worth noting its origin. Where did this powdered tea, for which there seems to be no contemporary analogue, come from? The answer demonstrates the immense historical importance of tea as well as the interconnectedness and fluidity of culture.

Tea culture originated in China. Although tea had been around for a long time before, it was during the Tang Dynasty (618-907) that tea drinking really became firmly entrenched in Chinese society, with teahouses becoming popular and the drink being widely consumed. At that time, the preferred method of preparation was to compress dried tea leaves into bricks for easy transportation and trade, and the dried leaves would be ground into powder and decocted (essentially boiled) to produce the drink. (A remnant of this tradition remains in the production of Pu Erh tea). Interestingly, it was typical for drinkers of the time to add salt to the liquor. By the Song Dynasty (960-1279) tea culture had evolved into an elaborate ceremony involving ornate methods of preparation. It was during this period that the use of "fine china" became commonplace, and--significantly--the method of preparation involving beating the wet powder into a froth with a bamboo whisk was introduced. This method and the elaborate ceremony surrounding it assumed spiritual and religious overtones in addition to the cultural significance and popularity it already had. It was only with the advent of the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) that the now-traditional method of steeping the whole leaf became the preferred method. But by that time, Japanese tea culture had already inherited an elaborate ceremonialism that essentially dated back to the Song Dynasty. How did this occur?

It is generally thought that Buddhist monks from China (traditionally the monk Eisai is credited) brought the pageantry of Song dynasty tea preparation with them along with Zen Buddhism, which was introduced near the end of the twelfth century. The Japanese tea ceremony, which embodies typical Zen principles of simplicity, reverence for the mundane and oneness with one's environment and self, is called Cha No Yu and, in many respects, maintains a high level of fidelity to the traditions imported from Song-era China.

Thus, matcha has a long and interesting history. The reverence the tea is held in does not stop at its preparation--the same level of care extends to the husbandry used to produce it. The fact that the leaves used to make matcha are grown in shade is extremely significant; the resulting leaves are protected from the sun's rays, causing a high concentration of amino acids in the harvested leaf. While green teas in general tend to be high in amino acids due to their low level of oxidation (and their method of preparation), keeping the plant in the shade as it grows helps it retain more of these amino acids and slows its growth, enhancing the natural flavors inherent to the plant. The resulting brew is noticeably sweeter than most teas, with a strong vegetal flavor. Because of its thick consistency, matcha is great on its own, but also makes for interesting modern concoctions such as green tea lattes, matcha milkshakes, etc. Matcha is also quite commonly used as a cooking ingredient in Japan in such dishes as ice creams, cakes, Jell-O and the like. (It is delicious, by the way).

A quick note on the oft-repeated health benefits of matcha--matcha contains extremely high levels of an antioxidant called epigallecatechin gallate, more commonly referred to as EGCG, which has been implicated in all kinds of salutary health effects, from cancer prevention to prevention of heart disease to strengthening the immune system. While EGCG is present in all green teas to some extent, matcha contains, by some estimates, up to 137 times as much. If you find that matcha is to your liking, at least you'll never have to feel guilty about overconsuming it!

Why Water Temperature Matters

Water temperature is not something most people spend a lot of time thinking about when they set out to make a cup of tea. Most of the time, the water is simply brought to a boil and poured over the teabag (or loose leaves). However, using boiling water can actually significantly impair the flavor of the tea. The reasons for this lie in chemistry.

A cup of tea contains numerous chemical and mineral compounds, among them amino acids, tannins, and aroma compounds. Aroma compounds are particularly important; they are what impart a certain "nose," or bouquet of aromas, to the liquor. These include such distinct olfactory sensations as smoke, fruit, wet grass, and many others. Certain types of tea have higher concentrations of specific compounds than others. For example, green teas--especially Japanese green teas--have high concentrations of amino acids (due to the unique manner in which they are grown and harvested).

The reason water temperature is important is because all of the aforementioned chemical compounds have a certain temperature at which they are destroyed. For instance, green teas are best infused at relatively low temperatures (see below for a rough guide). If the water is too hot, many of the delicate flavors and aromas will be neutralized and will not be present in the infusion. Even more importantly--and this is almost universally true--using water that is too hot, or steeping the tea for too long (which has a similarly deleterious effect) will introduce bitterness into the cup.

But we still haven't answered the question of why boiling water is bad for the flavor of your tea. Isn't this fine for black tea? The short answer is, no. Even though black tea is 100% oxidized, this doesn't mean there aren't valuable components of the overall impression that are damaged by excessive temperature. One of the most important aspects of a tea is invariably its bouquet. With regards to tea, we experience the aroma two ways--via gases that evaporate from the cup and reach our nose directly (orthonasally)and through our palate and the back of our mouth (retronasally). When water is boiled, it no longer contains any oxygen. This impairs the ability of the aroma compounds to form a gaseous state and subsequently be enjoyed by the taster. As well, it tends to dissolve tannins, which not only are an important component of the flavour but also significant in terms of the health benefits of tea. Using boiling water also encourages the formation of a "skin" of minerals on the surface of the tea, which soaks up some of the other chemical constituents of the flavor and dulls them on the palate.

So what are the best temperatures for each type of tea? The answer isn't as simple as you might think. What works for one tea may not work for another. For example, while many black teas--notably Assam teas--are best in water that is almost boiling (but not quite), another black tea, Darjeeling, is best at slightly lower temperatures. In general, however, there are certain characteristics shared by each type of tea that make them best prepared at a certain temperature. Below are some general guidelines.

WHITE/GREEN TEA: 140F-180F (60C-82C)
OOLONG TEA: 180F-200F (82C-93C)
BLACK/PU ERH TEA: 200F-210F (93C-98C)

This is a complex and important topic. For a more in-depth discussion, a good source is Francois-Xavier Delmas' book The Tea Drinker's Handbook.

World Tea Party

We are now just over halfway through the 2010 Vancouver Olympics. You've seen most of the pavilions. You've checked out a few concerts. You've been assaulted by crazed Luongo impersonators in full gear in the dead of night. You've consumed gallons of beer. You've laughed, cried, and thrilled to Team Canada in hockey. You've participated in all manner of drunken debauchery and sober exploration. Perhaps, by now, you're looking for some new events just off the beaten track. Something a bit different--or just a place to chill and get introspective to recharge for a while before your next foray into the throbbing nightlife. But what does this have to do with tea, you ask?

The Vancouver International Center for Contemporary Asian Art at 2 West Hastings Street (not far from Stadium station) will be hosting an international event called the World Tea Party for the duration of the games. As the name implies, the event will focus on tea, but will feature live music, visual arts, tea servings in Pigeon Park, and discussions of tea culture and history by experts. The event website describes it thus:

"The World Tea Party is a “social sculpture” that involves the creative empowerment of the audience and the general public. Its interactive aspect makes the World Tea Party an effective vehicle for a debate about the relationship between the Olympics and the Downtown Eastside...During gallery hours, tea is offered for free, both inside the gallery and at times on the street, while video projections are shown on the building’s exterior windows daily from 6:00 pm to 10:00 pm...Two 5,000 lumen video projectors will be used to project images 40 feet wide across the front windows of the gallery. Content will include works by commissioned artists, live images of performances, pre-recorded tea images, [and] documentation of the World Tea Party in different context..."

Each day will bring a different event. (Go here for the event schedule). If you're interested in tea and looking for a fresh Olympic experience, the World Tea Party might be the thing.

Japanese Green Teas, Pt. 2: Genmaicha

Genmaicha (roughly, "brown rice tea,") is another example of the diverse and singular nature of Japanese green teas. It is also often known as "the people's tea" and is quite common and popular in Japan. But what is it, and how does it differ from other green teas?

Unlike other teas, which distinguish themselves by their aroma or color, Genmaicha is set apart by its taste, which is quite unlike almost any other tea. It is said that the style originated from poor farmers, who mixed cereals into their tea to make the supply last longer. While the grassy flavors typical of a Japanese green tea are very present on the palate, the crisp taste is relatively free of bitterness and rounded out by notes of corn, rice, and wheat, which derive from the aforementioned grains. The color of genmaicha is a beautiful pale yellow and it is redolent of vegetables.

Genmaicha is similar to Chinese tie-guan-yin (an Oolong) in that it aids digestion, but the real reason to drink it is the pure pleasure and uniqueness of the infusion. It is becoming more common here, and can be had at a number of local tea shops, including Murchies, Sawa, David's Tea and Pekoe Tea Lounge (formerly Steeps). The Matcha Genmaicha subvariety is available at the latter three. Genmaicha is the perfect complement to Japanese food; if you like green tea but want something with a little more character and complexity, try it.

Great local tea spots: Finch's Tea & Coffee House

Finch's Tea & Coffee House is a hip little coffee and tea joint that tends to attract a young, cool crowd. The first thing you'll notice when you step in, aside from the charmingly rustic decor and European flavor, is how busy it always is. Finch's doesn't take reservations, and if you come at lunch, you will have to wait (although usually not long, as tables open up frequently). Within, you usually can find types ranging from the lone grizzled scholar hunched over his textbook, to a gaggle of college kids engaged in heated debate, to the business lunch crowd who work nearby.

There's a reason for the bustle, and it's not just hipster buzz: Finch's is a great place to have lunch and one of the best sources for quality loose tea in the financial district. A wide variety of delicious baguettes, cheeses and soups is on offer, and as for tea, there are dozens of varieties--ranging from the pedestrian (Earl Grey and English Breakfast) to the gourmet (Darjeeling) to the lesser-known (Sencha and a variety of Japanese teas, for example). The staff are a class act, extremely knowledgeable and polite, and prices are extremely reasonable, coming in at typically less than $10 for a meal with a beverage. If you're in a hurry, Finch's also offers their menu to go.

Finch's is a great place to enjoy loose tea and a healthy, delicious lunch, and it won't empty your wallet. It's perfect for a date or even a place to grab a bite on your own and read a newspaper. It's unpretentious yet cool, and is highly recommended.

Japanese Green Teas, Pt. 1: Hoji-cha

It's well known that the Japanese love tea. It is a daily ritual for many Japanese, and while some among the younger generations may have migrated to other beverages such as coffee or soft drinks, it remains popular with all ages and strata of society.

The Japanese consume a lot tea--so much, in fact, that demand always exceeds supply, making the Japanese are one of the world's largest importers. In addition to the green teas that one would expect, Japan imports large quantities of oolong and black tea (particularly Darjeeling, which inspires a rabid enthusiasm among aficionados there). However, there is no type of tea as intimately involved with Japanese culture and history as green tea, and the domestic market produces a number of fascinating varieties that are comparatively not as well known outside Japan. One of these varieties is hoji-cha.

"Cha," or 茶, means "tea" in Japanese. Hoji-cha means, roughly, "roasted tea," and refers to the process involved in producing it. As the story goes, sometime in the early twentieth century a Kyoto tea merchant solved an overstock problem by roasting his excess quantities of bancha tea to produce an entirely new variety. Today, much as it was done then, the tea is produced by roasting green bancha tea in a porcelain pot over charcoal. This process results in significant changes to the taste, colour and aroma of the tea.

The first thing one notices is the distinctive liquor, perhaps best described as mahogany (some brews may be lighter, depending on how long the infusion is and what temperature of water is used). The tea has a pleasing, vaguely sea-like nose with hints of fish or seaweed. The flavor on the palate is similar--notes of seafood and brine, with a strong almond undertone. Overall, the taste could be described as rich, full-bodied, and balanced. As you drink it, the colour and the taste of hoji-cha may evoke images of a fine cigar, or a solidly constructed oak desk.

As the roasting process toasts the leaves, it has the arguably beneficial byproduct of nullifying the natural astringency of green tea, rendering it utterly without bitterness. The health-conscious will also be interested to know that the roasting process also removes a significant portion of the caffeine, making the tea a good choice for the caffeine-sensitive, or those who enjoy tea late at night.

Hoji-cha is popular in Japan, and is often served at Japanese restaurants. It used to be difficult to find in Canada, but this is changing: it can be found at Murchie's, Sawa, Urban Tea Merchant, and some locations of Blenz. If you can find it, it is one of the most unique and pleasant teas and definitely not like most other green teas you've tasted.

Robert Fortune, tea spy (pt. 2)

Robert Fortune had done the Crown's mission and stolen the secret of tea from the Chinese in the form of thousands of seeds and camellia sinensis plants. But Fortune was already back in China, this time visiting China's black tea regions, by the time his first shipment was on its way to India. Although India had long had its own indigenous variety of tea plant (the camellia sinensis var. assamica), the goal was to establish a commercial-grade enterprise there capable of mass production and export in order to compete globally with what had literally been a Chinese monopoly. The plants were shipped through Calcutta (where historical records tell us that the plants were still intact) the capital of the British East India Company colonial government, to Allahabad. It was here that disaster struck.

Two unlucky events coincided to result in the spoliage of this first shipment. First, an incompetent local official of the British East India Company who knew little about botany and even less about tea plants subjected the plants to excessive watering. Second, the ship carrying the plants was trapped in Allahabad due to a severe drought which lowered water levels so drastically that it was unable to leave. The ship, and the plants, were stuck in Allahabad for six weeks in the sweltering summer heat. By the time the plants were ready to go to their next destination, Saharanpur, none of the plants were viable, and most were covered in mold and fungus due to the combination of excessive watering and excessive heat.

Upon his arrival in Shanghai, Robert Fortune received a letter advising him of the disaster. Like any good spy, he had insurance in case of a worst-case scenario: against Company orders, he had kept a substantial stash of seeds for himself. He sent a substantial amount of these seeds in the same custom-made Wardian cases (see photo) which he had used to transport the plants for the first shipment. The seeds proved much hardier than the plants in transit, and with a little luck, made it to India in one piece.

These initial plants were cross-bred with the native Indian tea plants to produce a hardy variety that would become the staple for worldwide black tea production. Although many of the initial plants died and there was still a lot of trial, error and outright failure, by 1900, only 7% of England's tea was imported from China, and India had become the world's biggest producer. (They held onto the title until 2006, when they were dethroned by China).

Thanks to Robert Fortune and his one small act of insubordination, England was in control of its own tea production and tea became firmly established in the Commonwealth countries as the beverage of choice. Next time you enjoy a hearty cup, think of the brave efforts of this bookish Scots horticulturalist and say thanks.

RECOMMENDED READING:

1. Fortune, Robert. Three Years' Wandering in the Northern Provinces of China, A Visit to the Tea, Silk, and Cotton Countries, with an account of the Agriculture and Horticulture of the Chinese, New Plants, etc. London: John Murray, 1847.
2. Fortune, Robert. A Journey to the Tea Countries of China: including Sung-Lo and the Bohea hills; with a Short Notice of the East India Company's Tea Plantations in the Himalaya Mountains. London: John Murray, 1852.
3. Rose, Sarah. For All the Tea in China. Hutchinson, 2009*
4. Mair, Victor H., & Hoh, Erling. The True History of Tea. Thames & Hudson, 2009.

*An enjoyable read, especially for Fortune fans, but must be taken with a grain of salt; some of the factual information is not accurate.

Review: Borpatra Estate Assam STGFOP1S

Assam teas are full-bodied, strong, malty brews that come from the region of India that shares the name. The Assam region is the world's largest single tea-producing region, and one of the two major varieties of the camellia sinensis plant, the camellia sinensis var. assamica, originates there. While, as with any other type of tea, quality varies, Assam produces some of the world's finest black teas.

Assam teas have particular characteristics in common: a malty flavor, notes of chocolate and cinnamon and occasionally honey in the tea before infusion, a bold red liquor, and a distinct sweetness and honey flavor.

The Borpatra Estate Assam STGFOP1S is a fine example of the style that exemplifies many of its best attributes. In case you were wondering, STGFOP1S is the "grade". In this case, STGFOP1S stands for (S)pecial (F)inest (G)olden (F)lowery (O)range (P)ekoe, and the 1S denotes that that particular tea is of the highest quality from that particular estate. (More on this topic later, as grading conventions are extremely complicated and, at times, confusing, but definitely worth understanding).

The un-infused leaves of this tea smell strongly of chocolate and honey, are variously of gold and deep black colour, and contain a high proportion of white, downy "tips" -- the most expensive and rare part of the tea plant that is only included in the highest-quality teas, and which impart a special sweet flavor of their own. The liquor is a golden red and, as with the un-infused leaves, redolent of chocolate, honey, and a hint of cinnamon. The taste on the palate includes all of the aforementioned as well as a very subtle hint of tobacco. It goes well with milk and sugar, as it helps balance any latent heaviness/bitterness in the cup as well as enhancing the natural sweetness of the style. It is an excellent cup of good quality, strong tea if you like a hard wake-up call in the morning; and, at $10.26 for 250g (which will make approximately 80-90 cups) from Upton Tea Imports, it's reasonably priced. Highly recommended.

Upton Tea Imports: a great source for fine teas

Buying tea by mail-order has a fairly long history, but it is only recently that good tea has been available for sale on the Internet. Now, online tea retailers are common, and tea is still, even in these straitened economic times, a fairly cheap commodity; thanks to the overhead saved by not having to maintain a store and the volume made possible by selling large quantities on the Web, some of these retailers can offer great teas for relatively inexpensive prices.

Arguably the best of these is Upton Tea Imports, an operation that has been around since 1989 (when it, too, was a mail-order business) but now has a strong online presence. According to their website, Upton Tea Imports carries "over 420 varieties of loose tea" including black, green, oolong, white, Pu Er, and a variety of herbal teas and tisanes, including dozens of varities of the popular rooibos.

The sheer depth of their selection is staggering--they separate their catalogue (which is available in print for free with any order) by country and type of tea, with each country offering dozens of distinct selections. All of their teas are very reasonably priced, and they carry a number of single-estate teas (particularly Darjeeling and Assam teas) which are from some of the best lots in the world. Some of these will cost $40-$50 for a 250g tin, but the difference between one of these high-quality single-estate teas and a run-of-the-mill example from the same style is worlds apart. One would be hard pressed to follow up your average Irish Breakfast (the main constituent of which is usually a hearty Assam, blended with other teas) with something like a Borpatra Estate Assam and ever want to go back. Their selection of Darjeeling teas is particularly broad and often includes some of the world's finest of these teas for very reasonable prices. Their first-flush Darjeelings are particularly recommended, although availability is limited depending on the season.

Upton Tea Imports also acquires special, limited quantities of rare lots of green and oolong teas (particularly Japanese greens). These selections vary each season and are often available for only a short time. They also have a commitment to buying organic when possible, and many of their teas are certified (these teas appear in their catalogue with an O next to the name). They also sell high-quality tea accessories such as teapots, strainers, infusers, and the like.

Their catalogue is informative and lists all of the teas they have for sale, as well as a quarterly article on some aspect of tea history that usually makes an interesting read.

Because of their immense, diverse selection, with fine teas from all of the major categories, and because of the uniformly high quality of the teas they offer (particularly the Darjeelings) as well as their fair prices, it is hard not to recommend Upton Tea Imports. For someone just beginning to build a knowledge of great tea and a desire to try many different types, there is no better place to start.

Robert Fortune, tea spy (pt. 1)

While black tea is nowadays perceived as the quintessential English beverage, it was not always so. For many centuries, tea production was a closely guarded secret, not known to Westerners. While the drink had achieved runaway popularity in the British Isles by the 19th century, almost no one, and certainly no one in England, knew exactly how it was made. The Chinese held a monopoly on production, and were very secretive about the production process--so much so that they would not allow foreigners to buy tea plants for export outside the country's borders. Silver was one of the few commodities the Chinese were interested in trading (this reluctance to accept European trade goods and the British Empire's desire for greater commerce with China were two of the reasons for the Opium War of 1839-1842).

Because the British were such lovers of tea, and because they were so commercially-minded, they naturally began to think about ways to enjoy their favorite beverage at a lower cost, with more control over logistics and production. But this would require more understanding of the climate in which tea plants could grow and how tea was made; with no way to purchase the plants legally, the British were forced to engage in espionage.

Enter a man named Robert Fortune. Fortune was a Scottish horticulturist with the Royal Horticultural Society, already well-known for his previous excursions in China, which had brought back several new plants to Westerners, including the kumquat. Impressed by his work, the British East India Company met with him in 1848 and commissioned him to enter China, purchase or steal as many tea plants and seeds as he could get his hands on, and bring it all back to England. In return, Fortune would be paid a handsome salary as well as being granted right of ownership to anything he brought back with him (except the tea, of course).

As quaint as it sounds, the mission was very dangerous. The British had just roundly defeated the Chinese in the Opium Wars, and anti-British sentiment was high. A British spy could very likely expect to be killed if he was found out. Nevertheless, Fortune got on with his mission. He shaved his head, leaving only a ponytail at the back, and donned the robes of a Chinese mandarin (civil servant). With a local guide named Wang, Fortune remained in China for quite some time collecting tea plants as well as seeds. He was able to successfully pass as a local; in fact, he even managed to get a tour of a Chinese tea factory, where he meticulously recorded every detail (he later wrote a book recounting his experiences which was for a time the only English-language book on the subject). While there, he learned a very important fact, previously unknown to Westerners: green tea and black tea come from the same plant.

Robert Fortune returned home with a wealth of knowledge about tea, and a generous supply of plants and seeds. However, Britain's entry into the tea trade was not assured; the incompetence of a British East India Company official nearly destroyed all of the plants Fortune had brought with him. It was only Fortune's prudent instincts that prevented this outcome and would usher India onto the world stage as a major player in the global tea trade.

(Continued in Pt. 2)

Recipe: Maghreb mint mélange

It may seem odd that tea is the de facto national beverage of Morocco. It may seem incongruous that a country situated in North Africa is one of the largest importers of tea in the world, with a tea culture that pervades all aspects of society and is truly part of the national identity. Yet both of these things are true, and for those that have had it, Moroccan mint tea is one of the world's most unique beverages. Moroccans not only drink a lot of it themselves, but use every opportunity to demonstrate their famous hospitality by proffering a cup (in fact, while three is polite, it is considered rude not to drink at least two).

It is still quite interesting to consider how tea came to be so ingrained in Moroccan culture. There are conflicting origin stories. While the general consensus is that it gained popularity in the 19th century and onward, its exact provenance is unclear. One theory speculates that the British government, embroiled in the Crimean war (1853-56) and consequently cut off from some of their usual buyers, turned to selling tea to Morocco. Moroccans had long enjoyed a tea-like beverage made with mint leaves, and gunpowder tea was popular because the infusion it produced along with the mint retained the same color and basic flavor as the traditional beverage. Another theory suggests that gunpowder tea was introduced to Morocco by visiting Chinese merchants.

Whatever its origin, Moroccan mint tea is a delicious, pure-tasting and very sweet beverage that is particularly good as a nightcap or evening tea. It has one of the best imaginable knock-on effects: it freshens your breath! Below is a simple, easy way to make this delightful tea. While the authentic Moroccan method is obviously more complex and elaborate, this method will produce tea that is essentially the same and can be easily made at home.

MAGHREB MINT MELANGE
Ingredients:

1. Fresh spearmint leaves
2. Loose-leaf Gunpowder tea (the brand isn't important; the type is. Twinings sells a decent gunpowder that is easily available).
3. Large quantity of sugar (this depends on taste, but sweetness is an essential part of the beverage, so keep a bowl of it, or a package of sugar cubes, on hand)

Preparation instructions:

1. For a 24oz (approx 3 cup) teapot, add 3 teaspoons of gunpowder tea.
2. Fill the pot with water heated to approximately 160-180C.
3. Immediately pour out this water. (Interestingly, while there are technical reasons for doing this, it may also derive from the Chinese method of preparing oolong teas, where the leaves are "awakened" by rinsing them with hot water).
4. Add a handful of mint leaves. A good rule of thumb is one leaf per teaspoon of green tea. You want the taste to be distinct, not overpowering (although given the clean, pure taste of mint, the infusion is forgiving if you put too much in).
5. Again, fill the pot with water heated to about 160-180C.
6. Add sugar to taste (this is the most subjective part of the recipe, as everyone likes a different degree of sweetness. Tip: the beverage is supposed to be very sweet, so add lots of sugar. 5-6 teaspoons for a 3-cup teapot would not be out of order. (Some choose to add sugar to the beverage once it's poured into the cup for more control, although the traditional method involves brewing the tea with the sugar in the pot).
7. Allow to steep for 2 minutes.
8. Pour over a strainer into a teacup or glass.
9. Enjoy!

This tea is truly unique and, as mentioned before, makes a superb nightcap or evening tea.

High tea and low tea: notes on conflicting usage

There was once a time when tea was a very social enterprise: it was typically prepared loose, in a pot, and decanted immediately into cups for the enjoyment of what was usually a gathering of friends. English gentlemen and ladies of substance often made tea in their drawing rooms, which functioned as centers of intellectual debate (and gastronomic pleasure) for their closest friends. There were also dedicated buildings, much like pubs, erected for the sole purpose of serving tea and food to accompany it-- these were called tea rooms. The first tea room in England was built by Thomas Twining, the founder of Twinings tea, in 1706; both the brand and the tea room are still in existence (it's on the Strand in London).
However, around the turn of the twentieth century, innovations in production resulted in the introduction of the teabag, which is today synonymous with the consumption of tea (although it is a relatively recent development). The teabag was well received, but truly exploded in popularity in the '30s and '40s. By the post-war period, in contrast to what had previously held, most tea was consumed in bags.
This development marked a shift from traditional, collective methods of enjoying tea (as a communal beverage to be enjoyed among friends, made in a pot) to a more personal, individualist experience. While traditional methods of enjoying tea never truly died out, the significance of old rituals did fade away for a time.
Now, however, with the popularity of loose tea gaining ground in recent years, more people are once again enjoying tea communally, in modern tea rooms that offer a very old-fashioned (yet quite different) tea experience. But it is worth noting that the terms “low tea” and the more commonly-known “high tea” had very specific, and quite different, meanings in English society where the rituals originated.
Low tea is an afternoon tea session, usually served in fine porcelain teaware, with small sandwiches and little pastries as well as an assortment of jams and condiments, as a sort of afternoon party—not a meal. This type of tea was often consumed by the upper classes and the well-to-do, having its origins in the habits of the royal family, and usually carried out in the early afternoon, between 1pm-3pm. But why “low tea?” It is said that this type of tea was so called due to the "low" height of the tiered tables, usually of stainless steel or fine silver, upon which the tea was served. (In Vancouver, Secret Garden offers this type of experience). Confusingly, this type of tea ritual is most commonly referred to as high tea today—and high tea is something quite different!
High tea was actually a tea ritual enjoyed mainly by the working classes in England. It is almost indistinguishable from a regular meal, in that the food consumed was hearty fare, intended to refresh the workers after a hard days’ labour. It was also known as meat tea due to the type of food consumed--eggs, deli meats, sausages, scones, and the like. It is particularly observed in Scotland.
Today many full-service tea houses that offer loose-leaf tea in fine china, served in an elegant and convivial environment, call this service high tea (particularly in America) but what they are actually referring to is low tea! Regardless of the misnomer, it is becoming easier and easier to enjoy high quality loose tea amongst like-minded individuals in an atmosphere of luxury and camaraderie—a truly rewarding experience which not only echoes the past, but may also signal the future.

Murchie's tea and coffee: a Vancouver staple

Murchie's Tea and Coffee is a place with name-recognition. In business since 1894, the brand has staying power. It presently has two locations in Vancouver, one in West Vancouver, one in Surrey, and one in Victoria, and has remained a familiar sight and a tourist attraction for generations.
The Vancouver location is arrayed with a wide variety of tea accessories (strainers, teapots, and the like), a large selection of treats (jams, jellies, cookies, spices, etc) and, of course, tea. The ambience immediately evokes a comfortable Victorian sophistication that hearkens back to the tea shops of old; they also have a menu of tasty options for lunch, most of which are quite good and are a fine complement to the beverages.

However, while the classy aesthetic of its retail locations is certainly appealing, the greatest strength of Murchie's is the expertly crafted blends it creates. John Murchie, the company founder, worked in the tea industry in Scotland prior to immigrating to Canada in the late 1800’s and founded the original Murchie's in New Westminster. At Murchie's he proceeded to devise what were at the time some very unorthodox blends. This tradition has carried on to the present day, and if you are a fan of black tea in the traditional English style, you will find much to love. An example of this singular style is Murchie's signature blend, the No 10 Blend, which the website describes as “a mild, sweet blend of green and black teas.” The Prince Charles Blend is also a very interesting creation. It is a product of its constituent parts, with the malty, full-bodied strength of Assam, the pleasing, subtle astringency of a high-grown Ceylon (from the UVA Highland), the fruity crispness and delicacy of Darjeeling, and the bready, fresh notes of Keemun. The overall impression is light on the palate, which makes it ideal for low tea, or lunch. Murchie’s also makes an Earl Grey which is one of the best in town—particularly if you like your Earl Grey heavy on the bergamot—and has a unique taste due to the fact that it includes Darjeeling as well as the traditional Keemun that is used for most Earl Greys.

Murchie's also offers a number of single-variety teas (Keemun, Darjeeling, Ceylon, Assam) which are generally of high quality, and there are now also green teas and even oolongs on offer. Tea is sold loose and in bags.

Recommended teas: No 10 Blend, Prince Charles Blend, Murchie’s Earl Grey

Locations:

Vancouver - Downtown
825 Pender Street West
Vancouver, BC V6C 1K6
(604) 669-0783

Vancouver - Oakridge
41st and Cambie,
Vancouver, BC V5Z 3X7
Tel: 1-604-872-6930

West Vancouver - Park Royal
Park Royal Mall
850 Park Royal North,
West Vancouver, BC V7T 1H9
Tel: 1-604-922-3136

Surrey
Semiahmoo Shopping Centre
Unit 136-1711-152nd Street,
South Surrey, B.C. V4A 4N3
Tel: 1-604-541-1066

Victoria
1110 Government Street,
Victoria, BC V8W 1Y2
Tel: 1-250-383-3112

The oxidation process in tea and its effect on flavor

When one hears the word “oxidation,” it may call to mind rot, degradation, and that russet-colored incrustation on the fenders of cars. However, you might be surprised to know that this same process of oxidation plays an important role in the production of tea—in fact, it is arguably the most important determinant of its overall flavour.

Tea contains substances called polyphenols—also known as tannins—which are chemical compounds found in many plants. These tannins are also found in wine, and are instrumental in influencing the overall flavour of the tea. As with any other plant, as soon as the tea leaf is plucked, it immediately begins a slow process of deterioration. As the cellular structure of the leaf deteriorates, an enzyme called oxidase is released (this deterioration can occur naturally due to age, or intentionally during the production process, where the leaf may undergo “rolling” and/or “bruising” in order to accelerate the release of the oxidase enzyme). When oxidase comes into contact with the latent oxygen in air, it begins to break down the catechins (a type of tannin) in tea at the cellular level. How long this process is allowed to continue determines what “type” of tea is produced; in particular, the oxidation process determines how specific chemical aroma and flavour groups are expressed. At certain levels of oxidation, unique smells and tastes are produced, and at other levels they are destroyed and replaced with new ones. The oxidation process is stopped at the desired level during production by “firing” the tea leaves—that is, heating them in a manner that does not burn or destroy the leaves, but heats them to a sufficient temperature to destroy the oxidase enzyme and arrest the oxidation process.

All tea begins its life as white tea (which is not oxidized at all, nor processed much) but most teas are subjected to processing which changes them into something else. Tea that is 100% oxidized is known as “black tea”. This is the tea most of us are familiar with, and the type found in most teabags. Tea that is partially oxidized is known as “Wu Long” or “Oolong” tea, and is originally a Chinese specialty (although Taiwan produces some of the world’s finest). Chinese Oolongs tend to be about 10-30% fermented, while some, particularly those of Taiwanese origin, are about 60-70% oxidized. Green tea is tea that has been “fired” before the process of oxidation could begin, and as such retains most of the qualities of the freshly plucked leaf. For all practical purposes, green tea is 0% oxidized.

A cup of tea is the product of a complex chemical process, but at its heart is the process of oxidation. Through oxidation, the chemical compounds present in tea can give rise to all kinds of unique and wonderful flavours and aromas—from the burnt notes of a Tie Guan Yin oolong to the vegetal freshness of a Lung Ching green tea. The next time you hear the word “oxidation,” don’t think of decay, think of creation: namely, the wonderful variety of unique flavours and aromas it produces in tea!